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Olympia Provisions: Cured Meats and Tales from an American Charcuterie, by Elias Cairo, Meredith Erickson
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A rigorous exploration of what American charcuterie is today from Portland’s top-notch meat company, featuring in-depth techniques for crafting cured meats, recipes from the company’s two restaurants, and essays revealing the history and personalities behind the brand.
Portland’s Olympia Provisions began as Oregon’s first USDA-certified salumeria, but it has grown into a mini-empire, with two bustling restaurants and charcuterie shipping out daily to all fifty states. In his debut cookbook, salumist and co-owner Elias Cairo dives deep into his distinctly American charcuterie, offering step-by-step recipes for confits, pâtés, sausages, salami, and more. But that is only the beginning. Writer Meredith Erickson takes you beyond cured meat, exploring how Cairo’s proud Greek-American upbringing, Swiss cooking adventures, and intense love affair with the outdoors have all contributed to Olympia Provisions’ singular—and delicious—point of view. With recipes from the restaurants, as well as extensive wine notes and nineteen frankfurter variations, Olympia Provisions redefines what American charcuterie can be.
- Sales Rank: #35322 in Books
- Published on: 2015-10-27
- Released on: 2015-10-27
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.25" h x 1.09" w x 8.22" l, 1.25 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 288 pages
Review
“Being French, I know how important well-done charcuterie is to everyday life. Olympia Provisions is a wonderful journey through the simple yet complex recipes that have made it a craft throughout time. Visually stunning and conversationally informative with personal stories, notes, and tips, it is a tribute to charcuterie’s versatility and cultural prowess, and the restaurant recipes only make me hungry for more.”
—Daniel Boulud, chef/owner, The Dinex Group
“Portland’s Olympia Provisions has been making some of America’s best charcuterie for years. Elias Cairo is the man behind it, and he has written a book that explains not only how he has been creating this food, but the whys that make it so good. This is a great resource for anyone who wants to explore the craft of charcuterie, with fabulous recipes and gorgeous photography.”
—Michael Ruhlman, James Beard award–winning author of Ruhlman’s Twenty and Charcuterie
“Olympia Provisions is so much more than a charcuterie, just as its cookbook is so much more than simply a collection of recipes. It’s a love letter to the craft of curing, smoking, and fermenting; a passionate family story, rich in history, technique, humor, and lots of good food. Elias Cairo’s utter adoration for cured meat is not only inspiring, it’s infectious!”
—Gail Simmons, food expert, TV host, and author of Talking with My Mouth Full
About the Author
ELIAS CAIRO is a co-owner and the lead salumist at Portland, Oregon’s, Olympia Provisions, which he founded in 2009. Born in Salt Lake City to a Greek family who butchered lamb and goats utilizing Old World preparations and technique, Cairo started cooking at a young age in his father’s restaurants. He began a European apprenticeship in Switzerland at the age of twenty, where he learned classic butchery and charcuterie from renowned chef Annegret Schlumpf before moving to Portland to open Olympia Provisions.
MEREDITH ERICKSON has written for the New York Times, Elle, the National Post, Monocle, and Lucky Peach. She has also worked as an editor and production manager for various magazines, campaigns, and television programs, and was the editor of The Family Meal by Ferran Adria. She is co-author with David McMillan and Frédéric Morin of the James Beard–nominated book The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, as well as Le Pigeon with Gabriel Rucker. She lives in London.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Charcuterie Tools and Equipment
You don’t need a lot of fancy equipment and supplies to make charcuterie, but there are a few items, some essential, that will probably be unfamiliar to you. In most cases, these specialized tools will make your charcuterie making easier and ensure that your final product is safe and delicious. Any and all charcuterie materials—thermometers, casings, grinders, stuffers, smokers, smoking accessories, nets, seasoning, spices, scales—can be found at SausageMaker.com.
digital scale
You will need a digital scale that is accurate up to .5 gram. It’s also ideal if the scale can work in both grams and ounces, and if you can zero it out after placing a bowl or other vessel on the scale.
dry box
To make fermented meats you will need a room or chamber that maintains 58°F (14°C) and 83 percent relative humidity, with a very slow airflow. More on this on page 118–19.
fermentation chamber
To make fermented meats you will need a room or chamber that can
be held at 73°F (23°C) and 95 percent relative humidity, with very little or no airflow. More on this on page 132.
grinder
There is something really rewarding about making a simple sausage
or pâté using a hand-grinder. But if I have a good amount of product
to make or am trying to make an emulsification, I like the ease of using an electric grinder. A KitchenAid mixer with a grinder attachment is a good starting place. It can handle a decent amount of meat. However, if you plan on making most of the recipes in this book, any one-horsepower grinder with a steel grinder head is the way to go.
knives
You can do most of the tasks required in the charcuterie chapters of this book with two knives: a deboning knife and a sausage-making knife.
The Victorinox 6-inch (15-cm) deboning knife has a nice point
on the tip and not too much flex. It will help you easily get the meat off the bones and is great for removing sinew and unwanted fat.
A sausage-making knife isn’t absolutely necessary, but it will make your life a bit easier. It looks like a small paring knife but has thin needlelike points on the opposite edge of the blade. You use this end to puncture your casing if you get any air in it during sausage making.
pâté molds and slow-cooking vessels
I love a solid, good-looking pan with a tight-fitting lid for making
pâtés and slow-cooking meats. Le Creuset is my go-to brand; they aren’t cheap and they make you look fancy, but they are also just
damn fine cooking vessels.
pH meter
A pH meter measures the pH level of your product and provides the only way to know for sure whether or not you are making a safe fermented product. If you are making fermented meats, such as salami, this is a small investment to make for serious peace of mind. I use one from Hanna Instruments that is easy to calibrate and simple to read.
smoker
You can smoke most of the meats in this book using a Weber grill or any charcoal grill with a lid. But if you plan on smoking more than once or twice a year, buy an electric smoker with a heating pad that will burn your chips without you having to stoke the coals. My smoker of choice is the Little Chief.
stuffer
Although it’s possible to stuff sausages using a grinder, I personally don’t like to; it takes a bit of time to get the feel for it. For these
recipes, I would use a stand-up piston stuffer with a hand crank and
a capacity of up to 31⁄2 pounds (1.6 kg) of meat. Far and away the
best stuffer of this size is made by a German company called Dick.
thermometer
Buy one that you can calibrate easily. At home, I use a standard
thermometer with an adjustable dial. I calibrate it by making an ice
and water slurry, then setting the proper temperature as necessary.
To calibrate your thermometer, in a large pot, mix ice and water in equal parts, then place the thermometer into the ice slurry; it should read 32°F (0°C). If it doesn’t, adjust your thermometer until it displays the correct temperature when stuck in the ice bath.
water activity meter
This piece of equipment will let you know you are making a safe dry-cured or fermented product. A water activity meter measures the unbound water content of your product, and the more unbound water you remove from a dry-cured or fermented sausage, the better your chances of reducing spoilage. The industry standard is the Pawkit made by Decagon. This amazing meter will last for a lifetime of meat making. It is only used for dry-cured items.
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
The Perfect Start to a Charcuterie Obsession
By Amazon Customer
As a foodie, I love to stretch my culinary skills in directions where I've never traveled. I saw this book,read a few preview pages, and bought it. The first half describes how to make nearly every cured meat known to man. Starting with pate, the charcuterie journey travels through sausage, bratwurst, bacon, frankfurters and finally cured hard salamis. The second part of the book takes the meat made in the prior part and creates wonderful dishes that are served at the OP restaurant in Oregon.
Each of the recipes have been reduced to home-sized projects, where 3 pounds of raw meat are transformed in to a dozen brats or two dozen frankfurters. And the recipes are absolutely delicious! If you're over 45 years old, the franks will take you back to the ones sold in butcher shops, still connected to each other by the natural casings in which they are stuffed. The brat recipe is by far the best I've ever eaten (and I am German and have been raised on Oktoberfests). The homemade bacon will make you abandon the horrible renditions currently being offered in grocery stores around the country.
If you've ever had the desire to try to cure your own meats at home, this is a wonderful cookbook to take the charcuterie amateur to the journeyman's level. Make some sausage for your friends and watch the expression on their faces when they bite in to the best bratwurst they have ever eaten.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Not as thorough as I would have liked. Dry-Cured Pork
By Ed Schmidt III
Not as thorough as I would have liked. Dry-Cured Pork: Make Your Own Salami by Hector Kent is much more informative.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Beautiful
By Elizabeth B. Carter
Great book with beautiful photography. I bought the book before my trip to Portland so I could get pumped about my visit and let me tell you, the place did not disappoint! Truly one of the highlights of my trip. Can't wait to return! Oh yeah, buy the book. :)
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